Feeding the Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Corgi’s have the ability to beg, plead, and make you think that they are going to waste away into nothing if they can’t just have ONE more bite. It is your job as their owner and guardian to resist the urge to cave to their every whim. This is for their own good! Feeding the Pembroke Welsh Corgi means knowing the average corgi needs about ¾ of a cup of feed, twice a day. We feed, Iams Lamb and rice. I can’t stress enough that you need to resist the urge to give your corgi everything that they want – an overweight corgi is JUST as bad as an underweight one. If you can’t distinctly see your dog’s hips, PLEASE cut back their feed! Feeding the Pembroke welsh Corgi isn’t hard, but it DOES require a good amount of willpower to not cave into those eyes (and ears!) when they look up at you!
Introduction
A pet is truly a lifetime commitment that 100% requires an incredibly amount of careful consideration. Please use this guide to help determine if a Pembroke Welsh Corgi is right for you and your family. Even if you decide not to purchase a puppy from us, I also volunteer to speak with you about the breed and answer any questions you might have. And even if you DO decide to purchase a puppy from us, I still recommend you speak with other outside resources, whether it is at a dog show, other breeders, or your vet. Ultimately, just be sure you take your time and make the best decision possible, as it WILL affect you for many, many years (albeit I’m sure those will be some of the best years of your life!).
What Is A Corgi?
The original recognition was granted in 1934. The standard is what all breeder’s should be striving to meet, and simply put, describes the ideal Pembroke Welsh Corgi. But what is a corgi?
Corgis originated in Wales, and legend has it that the sturdy little dog slipped away from his farmhouse every night to frolic with the elves and the fairies. If you’ve ever seen a “saddle back” tri-colored corgi, you have witnessed where the fairies rode, and some even have a “kiss” (a dot) on their forehead where they have been marked! During the day, the corgi found work on the farm by assisting his master in herding cattle, hunting vermin, and generally guarding the land.
Corgi literally means “dwarf dog,” aptly named due to his short legs on a larger body. There are two types of corgis, the Pembroke and the Cardigan. Our love here at Triple Tac Farms is the Pembroke, which is a smaller, more refined dog that is generally known for his lack of tail. Pembrokes’ are actually born with a tail, but it is cropped when the puppy is three days old, and stems from a tradition that dates back to his days as a working dog – no cow can step on a tail that is not there!
Breed Standard
The AKC breed standard, is what we at Triple Tac Farms strives to meet, every time we produce a litter. While we DO believe that all corgis possess the ability to be named the “cutest dog in the world,” that does not mean that they should be bred! Every dog has its faults, and it is our job as the custodians of our breed to look at our stock with objective eyes and determine where those faults are and how we can improve upon them.
General Appearance
To quote AKC, the corgi is supposed to be “low-set, strong, sturdily built and active, giving an impression of substance and stamina in a small space. Should not be so low and heavy-boned as to appear coarse or overdone, nor so light-boned as to appear racy. Outlook bold, but kindly. Expression intelligent and interested. Never shy nor vicious.” So what does this mean? Essentially, the judges should be looking for a moderate dog and has a decent amount of leg, but not so much that it appears to be a thoroughbred racehorse. The standard goes on to talk about a smooth and free gait that possesses reasonable soundness (keep in mind that this is a dwarf breed!), and literally says that movement must be highly regarded.
Faults that are mentioned are over or undersized corgis, button, rose, or drop ears, a bite that is either under or overshot, fluffies, whitelies, mismarks, or bluies. So let’s step through these items to give you a better understanding of them:
Over or Undersized: When I first started showing Pembroke Welsh Corgis, this worried me a lot. The standard literally says that height (from the ground to the highest point on the withers) should be from ten (10) to twelve (12) inches. Weight should be in proportion to size, but not to exceed thirty (30) pounds for dogs and twenty-eight (28) pounds for bitches. Dogs in show condition should be even smaller, with weights of twenty-seven (27) pounds for dogs and twenty-five (25) pounds for bitches. So with that said, the AKC does NOT disqualify Pembroke Welsh Corgis’ based on height or weight! You won’t see a wicket come out (a tool used to measure the height of a dog at a show) in the show ring. In fact, our experience is that there is a large variety of sizing that is presented to the judges. Good or bad, it is what it is, but we here at TTF are striving to keep within the limits that our standard set forth. The standard goes on to say that the distance from the withers to the base of the tail should be approximately forty (40) percent greater than the distance from the withers to the ground. This means that you should have a long, little doggie!
Button/Rose/Dropped Ears: All three of these ear sets involve the ear not standing erect. Rose ears fall down and back, button ears have the tips falling down, and a dropped ear does not have any rise at all.
Fluffies: These are the result of breeding a dog that ends up with two copies of the Fluff Factor, or long hair length, gene, known in genetics as L (capital L). The fluff factor is actually desirable in a show dog as it will produce what I like to call the “show coat.” While we don’t have any fluffies at TTF we do recognize that our stud dogs do carry fluff factored, which means his hair length might be longer than some, and still not be a fluffy. When bred to another carrier there is a 25% chance that a fluffy could be born. You can recognize a fluffy most often by the hair that seems to come out from everywhere – most notably the ears! I’ll admit they are pretty darn cute, and of course still make great family pets, even if you don’t typically see them in the show ring!
Whitelies/Mismarks/Bluies: All three of these are color issues. Whitelies have a mostly white body that is devoid of color, mismarks have an unfortunate spot somewhere that it shouldn’t, and bluies literally have a blue tint to their color. Again, just because these colors eliminate them from the show ring, does not mean that can’t make excellent family pets!
A Little More Specific
Head: Our standard describes the head as foxy in both shape and appearance, with an intelligent and interested, but not sly, expression. A wide skull that is flat between the ears, with moderation being brought up in the amount of stop, which refers to the slope in which the forehead joins the start of the muzzle. The cheek should be slightly rounded, but not so much to make the dog appear “cheeky” like a chipmunk, with no fill in below he eyes. The entire head when viewed from the side should be made up of three (3) parts forehead and two (2) parts muzzle, to make a total of five (5) parts: “Distance from occiput to center of stop to be greater than the distance from stop to nose tip.”
Eyes: Should be brown and of moderate size with dark rims that are preferably black. Most undesirable are black, yellow, or bluish eyes.
Ears: “Erect, firm, and of medium size, tapering slightly to a rounded point.” Remember the three little bears – not too big, not too small, and just right! You might hear some folks talk about the triangle – this is the line drawn from the tip of the ears, through the eyes to the tip of the nose, back through the eyes to the tip of the other ear, and back across from one ear tip to the other. This should ideally form a perfect equilateral triangle.
Nose: Should be black and fully pigmented.
Mouth: Either a scissors bite (the inner side of the upper incisors touch the outer side of the lower incisors, forming what looks almost like a pair of scissors locking together) or a level bite (not much lock but the teeth are even) is acceptable. The standard lists an overshot (think parrot mouthed) or undershot (think bulldog) bite as a very serious fault – these dogs should be culled from a breeding program! Lips should be black and tight, with little or no fullness.
Neck: The standard lists the neck as fairly long, or at least of sufficient length to provide over-all balance. It should be slightly arched, clean, and blending well into the shoulders. When grooming, you should make sure the hair lays flat along the topline to accentuate the neck. With that said, we also must keep moderation in mind, as an overly long, thin, or ewe neck is just as faulty as a short, stuffy one!
Topline: The topline should be firm and level, and neither riding up or falling away at the croup (which means you don’t want a large angle of slope from the tail down to the hocks). Proper exercise and diet should also be maintained so that you don’t end up either a sway-back from a sagging topline, or a roach-back, which makes the dogs back look like a rainbow or upside-down “U.’
Chest: The chest is stated to be deep and well let down between the forelegs. With that said, exaggerated lowness IS a penalty, and judges should keep in mind that the dog should not be so low that it cannot do the job that it was meant to do – herding!
Body: The body should be tapered, and the dog have noticeable hips when viewed from above. Viewed from the front, the rib cage should be neither round or flat, but rather egg shaped, which allows the lungs and heart to be located in the correct place.
Tail: The tail is mentioned to be docked as short as possible without being indented. The standard says a tail up to two inches in length is allowed, but does mention that if said tail is carried high that the view of the topline is spoiled. We recognize that the practice of docking is not allowed overseas, and thus you might see some full fox tails in show quality Pembroke Welsh Corgis there or with imports.
Forequarters: The correct front should be of moderate distance – not too narrow (indicative of a flat rib cage), too wide, or too straight, with short forearms that turn slightly inward and carry good bone. A crooked front with feet and pasterns turning out is also NOT acceptable, yet very common in our breed.
Hindquarters: Ample bone is mentioned again, with moderate angulation. Barrel hocks and cowhocks (turning out at the hock, which makes the feet turn in) are also listed faults.
Feet: All feet should be oval, with the two center toes slightly in advance of the two outer ones, and neither turning in nor out. Nails are mentioned to be short, with all dewclaws removed.
Coat: “Medium length; short, thick, weather-resistant undercoat with a coarser, longer outer coat.” The hair length can vary, but should have longer hairs on the underparts and rear (often called the “pants”). The body coat should lie flat and straight, but some waviness is named as permitted. Corgis should be shown naturally, and no trimming is permitted except to tidy the feet and possibly remove the whiskers (which we don't do here at Cook Arena Corgis).
Colors
The following colors are acceptable:
Red
Sable – Red hairs with black tips
Fawn – Light red that almost looks gold
Black & Tan – Also called Red-Headed or Black-Headed Tri-Color. Note that the tan MUST be present – black with no tan is a serious fault.
White markings are acceptable on the legs, chest, neck (either in part or as a collar), muzzle, underparts and as a narrow blaze on head.
See above for descriptions of color faults: whitelies, mismarks, and bluies.
Common Health Problems with the Pembroke Welsh Corgi
All breeds have their problems, and unfortunately the Pembroke Welsh Corgi is no exception. It is for this reason that at TTF we DO recommend health testing to ensure that you get the healthiest puppy that is possible. We do recognize that just because the parents have been tested, that it does not guarantee the puppy will live forever, but it DOES greatly increase your chances of having a long and healthy life with your new best friend.
Degenerative Myelopathy (DM): The best way to describe DM is a disease that affects the rear end. Dogs in advanced stages are those you’ll see in little doggie wheelchairs that hold up the back end. These dogs require help to go outside to potty, but generally get around quite well. When we test our dogs, the results come back as one of the following three:
N/N: This means the dog is DM Clear and will not be affected by the DM disease, or pass on a copy of it when bred. This is the holy grail of corgis, and our ultimate goal for all dogs within our breed! With that said, we do NOT agree that just because a dog is DM Clear that it automatically turns it into breeding stock! DM is just one factor to evaluate when deciding which puppy should eventually continue your line. Be careful of breeders who put absurd prices on DM Clear puppies – just as anything else, it should be considered and valued, but not the end all/be all in breeding decisions!
DM/N: This dog is listed as a carrier of the DM gene. That means that when bred, there is a 50% chance that the DM gene can be passed onto its offspring. Carriers most often do not exhibit signs of DM, but the test is known to not be 100% foolproof.
DM/DM: This dog is listed as “affected” with the DM gene. Every time it is bred, it will pass on a copy of the gene. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE DOG WILL DIE OF DEGENERATIVE MYELOPATHY! Many dogs that are DM/DM live well into their teens and never show one sign of DM. It is for this reason that we do not cull a dog simply because of the result of this test, exactly like we will not breed a dog simply because of this test. We do recommend that DM/DM dogs get started on quality supplements for joints at a younger age, which can help prevent issues in the future.
Please see the below table for percentages of resulting puppies based on DM status:
Right: Parent 1 Below: Parent 2 DM/DM DM/N N/N
DM/DM 100% Chance: DM/DM 0% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N 75% Chance: DM/DM 25% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N 0% Chance: DM/DM 100% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N
DM/N 75% Chance: DM/DM 25% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N 50% Chance: DM/DM 50% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N 0% Chance: DM/DM 50% Chance: DM/N 50% Chance: N/N
N/N 0% Chance: DM/DM 100% Chance: DM/N 0% Chance: N/N 0% Chance: DM/DM 50% Chance: DM/N 50% Chance: N/N 0% Chance: DM/DM 0% Chance: DM/N 100% Chance: N/N
Von Wildebrands (vWD1): Type I von Willebrand's disease occurs in Pembroke Welsh Corgis in the mild form (versus the the severe form, which occurs in Scottish Terriers and Shetland Sheep Dogs). It is characterized by the abnormally low production of a protein found in the blood called von Willebrand's factor which plays a key role in the complex process of clotting a damaged blood vessel. Just like DM, vWD1 dogs can be either Clear (N/N), Carrier (vWD1/N), or Affected (vWD1/vWD1). All Cook Arena Corgis puppies will be CLEAR (N/N) by parentage.
Hip Dysplasia: The most common orthopedic issue in Pembroke Welsh Corgis, hip dysplasia means that the hip joints do not form correctly as the puppy grows, and increases the chances of developing arthritis as the dog ages. The test for this is an X-Ray that must be done with an OFA certified veterinarian. The OFA (www.offa.org) grants ratings of dogs based on how the hip attaches. A passing score is represented by a grade of Excellent, Good, or Fair/Acceptable, and can only be granted once the dog is at least two years old. However, preliminary results may be requested after one year of age. One thing to note is that dogs with certifications are NOT guaranteed to never produce an affected puppy. We test simply to eliminate breeding stock that IS affected, thus reducing the CHANCE of producing an affected puppy.
Eye Issues: The registry for eye diseases is called the Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF). In order to receive a passing score, the dog must be checked by a Board Certified Ophthalmologist, who examines the eyes for any signs of disease. The registration is good for only one year as many inherited eye diseases can develop as the dog ages. Cook Arena Corgis will have their CERF eye exam results posted on our website. If you don’t see it listed, please don’t be afraid to ask! The most common place to get CERF eye tests done is at dog shows.
Heart Issues: Puppies can be checked prior to coming home with you, by request, and at buyer’s expense. Please keep in mind that this must be done by a Board Certified Cardiologist to be most effective. Just like in eyes, the most common place to find a testing facility is at dog shows. Dogs must be over one year of age prior to the exam, which checks for abnormal sounds called murmurs. Murmurs are rated I through VI and can go away as a puppy grows or a dog ages. An ultrasound can sometimes determine the cause of the murmur and indicate the severity of the issue.
Can you Afford a Corgi?
Corgis will cost on average about $2,500 apiece. We don’t feel the need to hide our prices as we are NOT ashamed of them. If this seems expensive to you, remember that reputable breeders have a lot invested in that puppy – when it is all added up, we are truly unlikely to be making much, if any, profit off of our litters. The countless hours (and dollars) spent making sure the dam and puppies are well cared for, have received health clearances, vet care, shots, deworming, AND have proven themselves in the show ring add up to well in the five figures. Please consider that whatever dog you choose is a LONG TERM investment – why set yourself up for a lifelong of heartache and vet bills because the breeder you chose was just out to make a buck and decided to skimp on the above?
Feeding the Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Corgi’s have the ability to beg, plead, and make you think that they are going to waste away into nothing if they can’t just have ONE more bite. It is your job as their owner and guardian to resist the urge to cave to their every whim. This is for their own good! The average corgi needs about ¾ of a cup of feed, twice a day. We feed Iams. I can’t stress enough that you need to resist the urge to give your corgi everything that they want – an overweight corgi is JUST as bad as an underweight one. If you can’t distinctly see your dog’s hips, PLEASE cut back their feed!
Grooming the Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Be prepared for hair! I will say it again – be prepared for hair! Pembroke Welsh Corgis are a double coated breed that DO shed about twice a year. When they shed, you will probably think they are leaving another dog for you that will magically appear once the hair has all let go. There ARE some things you can do to minimize this:
Keep your dog on a HIGH QUALITY dog food.
When you give your dog a bath do so with a high quality shampoo that is made for dogs and not a human one that could strip the natural oils!
Do NOT use a Furminator – this tool literally has a blade in it that cuts the hair. Definitely NOT what you want!
Spray a coat conditioner on them regularly (we like Isle of Dog and Chris Christianson)
Vet Costs
In addition to shots (which will run about $130 to $200 the first year, and about $50 per year after that), there are other basic veterinary costs that must be considered:
Spaying or neutering: This will cost about $150 to $500, and should not be done too young. Talk with your vet. Spaying is more invasive and thus will cost more than neutering.
Deworming: We recommend deworming monthly, and also following up with at least annual fecal exams. The medicine will cost about $80 per year, with the fecal another $40 or so.
Flea Prevention: Imagine if you had fleas biting on you constantly? Definitely not the life we want for our loved ones! Budget about $150 per year on prevention to keep your best friend happy, as well as yourself bite-free!
Emergency Visits: If your dog does get injured or sick, plan to spend about $150 for the initial evaluation, plus the cost of treatment, tests, and medications. Make sure you establish a relationship with a good vet PRIOR to injury – the best ones will not accept new clients and most likely refer you to an emergency clinic if no previous relationship has been established.
Exercising Your Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Pembroke Welsh Corgis do love to lie around the house, and are quite the cuddle bugs! However, they do need moderate exercise in order to keep their stylish figures. Keep in mind that this breed was originally made for herding, so sleeping and eating all day only promotes their middles to expand! We recommend a daily regime of outside play – ball, Frisbee, chase, etc. Please do not do excessive impact training (such as long stints on the treadmill or hikes) prior to at least one year of age. No jumping off the furniture or the bed. You’ve got to protect those stubby little legs, long back and hips, which we all love!
Pembroke Welsh Corgis also need room to run. We highly recommend a large fenced in yard, which will protect your puppy from being able to be hit by a car when selective hearing hits. If you don’t have a fence, your dog should be kept on a leash AT ALL TIMES. It only takes a second for your beloved puppy to disappear and get hurt or lost.
Other Expenses to Consider
Leashes, collars, and miscellaneous supplies: Check stores or catalogs for prices. At a minimum, you’ll want a good-quality 6-foot leash and a buckle collar for your puppy to wear every day with his ID tag on it. Make sure you also have record of their microchip number! Depending on how much and what type of training you do, you’ll probably end up buying many more leashes and collars. I am not a fan of harnesses, they teach your dog to pull. I prefer a collar, leash and teach them lose leash walking. Of course you'll also need food and water dishes - stainless steel ones will last the longest. It is important to keep a clean water supply available for your dog. Since bowls can be easily knocked over, some owners clip large steel buckets to the fence in the dog’s run instead. You can also purchase drinking fountains or automatic water devices for not very much money that will ensure your friend always has an adequate supply.
Obedience classes: For the sake of your dog, yourself, and your neighbors, you should enroll in some kind of obedience classes. At a minimum, a puppy class, followed by a basic manners class, is essential, even if you plan to go no further in competitive obedience. Group classes can cost anywhere from $70 - $120 for a 6 week course. Private lessons are more, of course.
Travel issues: If you ever travel, or are sometimes called on to work longer hours than your puppy can be left alone, you may need a pet sitter, dog daycare, or dog walker. Prices vary widely depending on the services offered. (If you travel frequently and/or work long hours often, you should reconsider whether owning a dog is a good choice at this stage in your life.
· Dog Shows: If you plan to show your dog in AKC conformation, obedience, and/or agility events, entry fees range from $20.00 on up. That amount doesn’t include gas, hotels, and other travel fees, professional handling or grooming, that Pembroke coffee mug souvenir you just couldn’t resist at the show, etc.... Of course, these are not “necessary” costs of owning a Corgi. But if showing your dog is one of the reasons you are buying one, you should factor these expenses into your decision as well. You will also need to discuss these plans with us prior to taking your puppy home. Most of our dogs are sold on Limited Registration, which prevents their entry into AKC conformation events.
Home Maintenance: As mentioned above, Pembroke Welsh Corgis DO shed! This means a house with a Corgi is unlikely to be 100% clean at all times. Only you can decide how much of a messy house you can tolerate. If a dirty footprint on your newly scrubbed kitchen floor really bugs you, you’re headed for trouble and might be better off foregoing your dog purchase. Of course, you could hire a maid service to keep up with the extra work, but that takes us back to what you can afford...
So How Do I Know if a TTF is Right for Me?
We encourage you to talk with as many breeders as you can. Not only are we not “scared” of this, but we encourage it! Here is a list of recommendations, whether you buy a puppy from us, or choose another breeder:
Talk and visit with many breeders, even if it means a long drive!
This will enable you to meet the breeder and see the conditions of their kennel. We encourage puppy buyers to come visit us, and meet our dogs. We want to meet YOU too!
Ask to see the sire and dam of your puppy. Please keep in mind that the sire (father) might not be on-site, or even owned by us (the breeder), but the breeder should have plenty of information on him to provide – INCLUDING PICTURES. What it comes down to is that ALL Pembroke Welsh Corgis are cute as puppies and can look very similar. You MUST evaluate the parent’s in order to see what you might end up with. Please do take into account that the bitch (mother) will probably not be in show condition when viewed in person – birthing puppies is hard work! However, the breeder should have plenty of pictures to provide as well as a list of accomplishments!
Be prepared to WAIT for a puppy
QUALITY is well worth the wait!
It is not unusual to have to wait 6 months or more, plus another 8 weeks once the puppy arrives. Please also do not expect to pick out a puppy as soon as it is born. Show buyers (and ourselves) will get first pick, and this cannot be done until the puppies have some age.
Expect a written contract and a health guarantee
Please read everything prior to signing, and don’t be afraid to ask questions!
Make sure the proper documentation comes with your puppy
AKC Registration application, properly completed and signed
Pedigree of 3 or more generations
Written instructions on the feeding and care of the puppy
Immunization record and schedule including date and type of serum, and dates future inoculations are due
Deworming record and schedule
Written sales contract and guarantee stipulating all terms and conditions of the sale, including when and what health defects the puppy has been examined and is guaranteed for.
Show versus Pet Quality
So what does that mean exactly? It could be markings/color, but it SHOULD be structure. One thing to keep in mind is that NO ONE can guarantee how an eight to twelve week old puppy will turn out! We do our best to provide a best guess if you are looking for a show puppy. Remember – that’s our pedigree that will be advertised every time you set foot in a show ring, so we have a vested interest in getting you the best quality puppy that we can provide!
We have no problem with calls for help be it housebreaking, leash training or just general questions.
Show puppies are sold on one on one contracts. As the breeder, we feel that we have a responsibility to ensure that we are bettering the breed every time we bring a life into the world.
Conclusion
We hope this Puppy Buyer’s Guide has helped you in making a decision on getting a Pembroke Welsh Corgi of your own. Please do not hesitate to call/text us at 517-648-0152, email, ttacharm2@aol.com or Facebook, Triple